Urban homesteading today is about doing things for yourself that can make you more self sufficient and less dependent on the systems we take for granted. What are some of these systems and why does it matter if we’re dependent on them or not?

Let’s look at something as simple as the grocery store. We have the convenience of purchasing food easily by pushing a cart around an air conditioned store to select what we want, and sliding a piece of plastic through a machine before walking out the door with our purchases. We take for granted the ability to do this, but what if just one of the systems that allowed us to do this broke down?

What happens if you lose your job and cannot find another one right away? This is currently happening to many more Americans than you may be aware. There may be plenty of food on the grocery store shelves, but it does you no good if you cannot purchase it.

What happens when there is a trucker strike and the food stops flowing onto the shelves at your local grocery store? Usually this has the potential to put at least a minimal crimp into your lifestyle, depending upon how wide spread and how long the strike lasted. You may or may not have enough food in your pantry to feel it.

But what if all the trucks stopped because they couldn’t get gas? This may not be as far fetched as it would seem considering the increased volatility over oil, and the dependence the United States has on other countries for our oil supply. We don’t produce enough oil to meet our own needs. We are a net importer of oil, and we have been for years. What if the supply got cut off? You say that’s not going to happen, we will always be able to get oil. Really?

There is a growing disdain for America in the world, especially in oil producing nations. We’ve seen this in the form of terrorism. Let’s assume the supply is never cut off, but the price gets more outrageous. That gets passed on to the trucking companies, which gets passed on to the grocery store, which gets passed on to you. When the price of gas went up so high this last time did your wages go up with it? What if the price had never dropped, but continued to go up and your wage did not go up with it? What foods could you be priced out of buying as a result of price increases?

This transitions into how does the economy effect the grocery store? Don’t be fooled into thinking that hyperinflation cannot happen. If you as an individual had the same debt load as the United States, on a proportional level, you would be bankrupt. The difference is they can print money. How long will this last?

The U.S. is also a net imported of food now. We do not produce enough food to feed ourselves. We rely on other countries to grow food and sell it to us. What happens when there is a drought in those countries and they don’t produce at the same level they had been. Will they feed the people of their own country before or after selling us food? What if there isn’t enough?

There are many other things that could be said here to communicate that blindly relying on our current systems of support could be a recipe for personal disaster, which in turn could escalate into national disaster. The purpose of these examples has been to cause you to stop and think. What would your life look like if any one of those examples happened? And if the answer to that question frightens you, good, if it causes you to begin to do something about it. What can you do to change that answer for yourself for the better?

That’s where urban homesteading today comes in. Getting back to the basics and applying self reliance to any and every area of your life that you can will not only help take care of you and your family in an event like any of those described, but it can also help to reduce some of the strain on the systems themselves.

This website is a journey into those things which can help you become more self reliant. A journey we can take together. All of the research put into this site can benefit many people instead of just a few. But the only people who will truly benefit are those who take the information and apply it for themselves.

Take the time to read and learn, to share your own knowledge and experiences, and apply those things that will make your life better. Who knows, maybe we can make a difference, even if it is only to those around us.

Technorati Tags: homesteading today, urban homesteading, Urban Homesteading Today

The process of growing and caring for a fruit tree can be challenging and even difficult at times, and sometimes one of the hardest parts is choosing which kind you want. You have to choose between many sizes, fruit, and other attributes. The different sizes include: dwarf, semi-dwarf, and standard. Your choice can affect everything about your growing experience, including the amount of work you have to put in and the rewards or fruit you have to harvest.

Dwarf fruit trees are ideal if you only have a limited amount of open space in your yard. They take up as little as only an eight-foot diameter plot of land. Although the dwarf fruit trees are smaller than the others, their fruit is just the same size and the shortness of the tree makes them easier to prune and harvest. Dwarf fruit trees don’t generally tend to live quite as long as larger fruit trees. They begin to bear fruit after three to five years, so if you are going to buy a dwarf fruit tree from a nursery you will want to check and see how old it is.

Semi-dwarf fruit trees are medium sized, and when they are full grown they take up about a fifteen-foot diameter. Semi-dwarf fruit tree’s height can range from as low as ten feet to as high as sixteen feet. To keep them from getting to large, you should prune them at least once a year. Occasionally semi-dwarf fruit trees take a season off and produce little or no fruit, but mostly they produce hundreds of fruit every year. Many people enjoy having semi dwarf fruit trees because they produce more fruit than a dwarf tree, and they are generally easier to harvest and maintain than a standard fruit tree.

Standard sized fruit trees take up much more area than any of the smaller tree varieties, and they are also harder to keep manageable and to harvest all of the fruit. If you do not prune them at least once a year they can grow as large as thirty feet. If you are just looking for a good tree to provide you with plenty of delicious fruit and to keep your yard shady, a standard sized tree could be the perfect tree for you. Standard sized fruit trees take a very long time to reach their full height, but they usually begin to bear fruit after only three to five years.

The best variety of fruit tree to buy would be one that carries fruit and does well in your area, because a local fruit tree takes less work and grows the best. Although fruit trees bearing other, more exotic kinds of fruit may seem more exciting, they may not grow as well in your area, so it would be advisable to do your research before you make your decision. You can definitely try to grow a more exotic tree, but it will take much more commitment and time.

Another factor involved in deciding what type of tree is thet kind of soil you have, because some trees do better in damp soil while others are better suited for drier soil. If it rains often in your area you would do well to plant a plum tree. But if you do not get very much rain you would do better to plant a pear tree or an apple tree. Before choosing which type of fruit tree you would like, consult your local nursery or gardening guru to find out which trees would do well in your area.

Other things that you should look for while looking for a fruit tree at the nursery are things like how sturdy it is, if all of the branches are evened out, how straight the tree stands, the condition of the roots that support the tree, the length of the stem, and the height of the fruit from the ground. Making a careful and deliberate decision can mean the difference between having the stunted fruit from your lopsided tree being eaten by animals or you.

The more you know about your area and what grows best, the better decisions you can make to when you are planning what to grow. And remember, if you space is limited, even a dwarf fruit tree can be a canopy layer in your permaculture garden. It is also worth considering growing dwarf citrus trees in containers if you live in a climate that is not good for citrus. If you have a dwarf orange or lemon tree in a container, you have the flexibility of moving them into a greenhouse, or even indoors, depending on your climate and needs. Whatever you decide, when you are growing fruit trees, make sure you like the fruit!

Order Fruit Trees. Apple, Cherry, and more!

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LATE SEASON HARVEST & STORAGE

I was never more secure in our wilderness home than when I lifted the latch and opened our pine cupboards to see double rows of variously shaped bottles traveling all the way to the far log wall. The ruby of pickled beets, the purple hue of huckleberries, rows of peas, pickles, and velvet raspberries in scarlet syrup were waiting for the long winter. Throughout our years in the bush, we ate only wild meat and the rabbits, chickens, and geese we raised ourselves. The store of moose and bear rose and fell with the seasons but we preserved everything from hindquarter roasts to heart and tongue to soup stock from boiling down the bones. I confess that for me the beginning of each canning season still initiates an energetic fumble through cupboards and drawers, while I mumble, “Where’s my favorite funnel?” “Where in tarnation are the tongs?” or “Where’s the confounded colander?” The wise canner assembles all tools in advance, and one advantage of this method of preservation is that once the equipment is acquired, none of it needs to be purchased again. Well…almost none.

Why do I bother with this time-consuming and inevitably messy seasonal chore? How about the spiritual zing of opening a jar of ruby cherries or apricots for dessert in the depths of February? Now how about saving all the money you would have dumped into fresh produce for the entire winter? Getting warmer? Not only is preserving economical, in the long run it also saves time.

The simple theory behind canning is that heat and an airtight seal preserve fruit and vegetables safely for months. The food, packed in jars, is heated to very high temperatures to destroy enzymes, bacteria, and other food-spoiling microorganisms. As the sealers heat, the air is driven from them, and as they cool a vacuum seal forms. This vacuum seal prevents the air from re-entering the jars and spoiling the contents. And unlike frozen produce, canned foods are not dependent on electricity to keep them sound. In our grandparents’ time, refrigeration wasn’t available and canning was the most practical method for storing perishables.

My own grandmother, with belt cinched tight on her pink housedress, and in shoes fit for battle, would march back and forth across the kitchen hoisting hot jars from the steaming water bath. Nanny canned in the same spirit that she conducted most of her business. Her preserves were like prayer bottles filled with the best of the harvest. Nothing matched her pears, or the tangerine tone of her pickled crabapples. Unlike me, Nanny was completely prepared and she followed the procedure with crisp efficiency. Also preserved in my mind is my own firm resolution to sidestep the domestic yoke and seek out a life of adventure. Ironically my trail led to a remote pioneer existence where survival included canning countless jars of produce every year. On our Coast Mountain homestead, where, like our grandparents, we lived without refrigeration, it was our chief storage method.

The Two Basic Strategies

Water-Bath Canning

There are two basic ways to process preserves: water-bath canning and pressure canning. The appropriate method is determined by the level of acid in the produce. All low-acid foods such as vegetables, meats, poultry, and seafood must be processed under pressure at 240°F. Without this intense heat a harmful bacteria, called Clostridium botulinum, can survive and thrive. The growing spores produce a deadly yet insidious toxin, since the food gives no obvious indication of spoilage. Luckily the spores do not grow in high-acid foods such as tomatoes, pickles, and fruits. It is safe to process these in a boiling water bath at 212°F. The equipment needed for this is either a traditional water-bath canner or a metal pot that is three to five inches deeper than the jars. The pot must have a tight-fitting lid, a flat bottom, and a wire rack for lifting jars out and for preventing them from touching the bottom (or each other) or falling against the sides of the canner. You can also use a steam-pressure canner for waterbath canning provided it is deep enough. And the pot should be no more than four inches wider than the stove’s burner.

Pressure Canning

It may be best not to buy a used canner made before 1970 because it may lack vital safety features and finding replacement parts could pose a headache. Pressure cookers should come equipped with a jar rack, a dial pressure gauge, an automatic vent/cover lock, a steam vent, a safety valve, and a lid that turns to lock into place.

Now, do you want to use the hot pack method or raw pack method of filling the sterilized jars? One rule applies to both techniques: Only use produce in its prime. Fruit and vegetables will be preserved but not improved by canning.

In the raw pack method, the food is packed raw into the jars, then covered with a boiling hot liquid. Generally, raw packed fruits and vegetables shrink during processing and they should be packed tightly. There are exceptions however, including corn, peas, and lima beans which actually expand during processing and so should be packed loosely.

With the hot pack method, the food is preheated in liquid, packed hot into hot jars, and then covered with hot cooking liquid. Hot packing is superior in the sense that more air is forced out of the food tissues. There should be enough liquid to fill in around the food as well as to cover it.

After packing each jar, remove air bubbles by poking a plastic spatula or plastic knife between the food and the jar. Metal utensils could scratch the glass. Move the spatula up and down while rotating the sealer. As air is released, the level of liquid may subside and you’ll need to add more fluid. The head space is the space between the top of the food and the lid, and it is essential for the expansion of food during processing and to enable a vacuum to form. If too little space is left, some of the food may pump out during processing. If too much space is left, air may remain in the jar after processing. Either could mean a poor seal. The required amount of head space varies according to the food, so it is important to follow the recipe.

After filling the jars properly, the next step is to seal them. Place snap lids in a shallow bowl of boiling water for three minutes to soften the rubber seal. Do not boil directly over heat because this could damage the sealing compound. Wipe the sealing edge of each jar rim with a clean damp cloth to remove any drips or particles that could hamper the seal. Place a lid squarely on each jar, then firmly screw on a metal ring. The sealing compound on the lid will safely survive only a single use and should then be disposed of.

Fruits & Veggies

To process high-acid foods, such as fruit and tomatoes, place the packed jars into a half-filled water-bath canner. If raw packing, the water in the canner should be hot but not boiling. However it is safe to use boiling water for hot-packed fruits and vegetables. Once the jars are lowered into the canner, add hot or boiling water to raise the level one to two inches above the jars. Be careful not to pour boiling water directly onto the jars. Put the canner lid on and as soon as the water comes to a rolling boil, begin to count the processing time. Type of food and altitude will determine the length of time, and a reliable cookbook or canning book should be consulted for this information. Throughout the processing, keep the water at a steady but gentle boil, adding more if necessary.

I learned to treat jars gently years ago when my family first moved to the bush in British Columbia. I was feeling banished from the southern orchard paradise. Fruit from trees gradually took on mythical proportions and when my mother arrived with prune plums I nearly knocked her over getting at them. It was essential to can them right away, and so I set about diligently pricking each prune with a fork, then pressing them into the hot jars, filling each sealer with sugar syrup and leaving a half-inch head space. Following the proper procedure, 25 boiling minutes later I lifted the lid. Gripping the birch jar lifter, I hoisted the first hot sealer and felt the bottom of the jar collapse as the fruit drifted out and diluted itself to death in the water. I fished for another one and felt the same sickening sensation as the bottom gave way. In the end five out of seven jars collapsed and I was left with a fractured-glass-and-plum stew. Aware that glass can become fatigued, I concluded that these jars had been used one too many times. With the cold pack method, even after boiling water or sugar syrup has been added, if the contents are cool enough, the jars won’t heat up. I’m careful now never to put cool jars in boiling water.

Meat, Fish & Beans

To can low-acid foods such as meat, fish, and beans, put about three inches of water in the pressure cooker and position the packed closed jars. Following the instructions for your particular pressure canner, secure the lid but leave the vent open. Heat until a steady flow of steam escapes from the vent. Allow it to whistle for about 10 minutes, then close the vent. Once the dial gauge has reached the proper pressure, begin to time it. It is essential to maintain a steady pressure, and if wood heat is used the gauge has to be carefully monitored and the canner shifted about accordingly. Once the time is up, remove the pressure cooker from the heat and wait for about 45 minutes until the gauge registers zero. Open the vent. This will release the remaining steam. Two minutes later open the lid and remove the jars.

Canned food needs to be cooled upright and gradually in a safe place out of a draft. This takes several hours. Don’t put jars on a cold surface and don’t cover them with a cloth.

VITAL CANNING EQUIPMENT

Canners, jars, snap lids, and screwbands

Large bowls and other containers – for preparing food. Be sure to choose non-aluminum. Stainless steel is ideal.

Colander - These large-hole strainers are essential for draining washed or salted fruits and vegetables.

Tongs - These are handy for moving hot beets and other produce, as well as for lifting snap lids from hot water.

Jar lifter - This is essential for lifting hot jars from the canner or pressure cooker. We had a homemade birch pair. The commercial ones are metal and coated with soft plastic.

Good paring knife - Have this in advance for peeling fruit and vegetables. A knife you are comfortable with is essential.

Measuring spoons and measuring cups - Get your proportions right.

Long-handled spoons - These are important for stirring your bubbling brew, which will froth and spit. Metal is best because wood absorbs color and flavor.

Funnel - A canning funnel fits neatly inside the jars and is vital for keeping the rims clean while filling.

Potato masher or pastry blender – good for crushing fruits slightly so their juice is released.

Spatula or plastic knife – for removing air bubbles from jars before processing.

Clean Cloth - This will be dampened and used to wipe rims.

Timer or clock – for keeping track of processing time.

Labels - lest we forget when or what we canned.

EXTRA EQUIPMENT FOR JAMS, JELLIES, JUICES, ETC.

Pots and pans - Heavy non-aluminum pans with at least a six-quart capacity.

Candy or jelly thermometer - A thermometer with a metal clamp for fastening to side of pan to detect correct jelling temperature.

Food processor or food mill – These grinders are either manual or electric and are ideal for pureeing fruits or vegetables.

Cheesecloth - This loosely woven cotton is good for straining juice from softened fruit and pulp.

Jelly bag - This mesh bag hangs, allowing the juices to drain. It should be dampened first so that it doesn’t soak up juices from the fruit.

Ladle - This large spoon with cup bowl, long handle, and spout will ease the task of pouring hot jelly and jams into jars.

Mesh skimmer - This long-handled fine-wire mesh strainer is ideal for removing the foam from the surface of the boiling jelly.

Rhubarb & Huckleberries

In the north rhubarb was a staple fruit. It unfurled early, and after we had glutted ourselves on the rosy sauce we began to can it. There was such an abundance, we harvested only the tender ruby stalks. Once chopped up, rhubarb should be left alone to make its own juice. Simply sprinkle it with sugar and let it sit overnight before preserving it. Vary the amount of sweetener to your taste. A guiding amount could be a half cup of sugar to every four cups of rhubarb. We discovered that rhubarb combined with berries is even better. It blends well with raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, or saskatoons. Cook the sauce, then add the berries for the last 10 minutes. Rhubarb can scorch, so be sure to stir. Pour the mixture into piping hot sterilized jars, then process in a water bath for 10 minutes. In the dimness of winter, our hands reached for the rhubarb with the deepest hue while the jars of plain sauce waited, like wallflowers, on the shelf.

Pasteur’s Revolution

Mason jars, named after their inventor, John Landis Mason, may now seem the dullest appliance imaginable, but they were a revolution in the nineteenth century. Originally, earthenware jugs and bottles sealed with wax or corks were used for “canning,” until Louis Pasteur discovered that the microorganisms they let through caused spoilage and disease on an epic scale. Mason, a tinsmith, was thunderstruck by the notion that glass containers sealed with a rubber ring and gasket would keep food indefinitely. The design has remained basically consistent to this day.

The jars range in size from half pint to half gallon and are available in regular and wide-mouthed styles. In modem times these jars are closed with self sealing lids and metal screwbands. For water-bath canning, other types of jars can be used as long as they are the right size for the rings and lids. Mayonnaise jars are especially good for this. As long as the jars are in good shape, they can be employed indefinitely. However it is important to check the jars and metal rings for any nicks, dents, or other flaws before using. Discard any damaged ones, or if the jars are still in reasonable shape, they can serve for other types of storage.

Before filling, the jars must be cleaned and sterilized. Wash them with hot soapy water but avoid the use of steel brushes or any metal devices because they damage glass. Rinse in scalding water. In order to avoid breakage, sealers should be hot when filled with boiling liquid. Jars may be left in hot water until using, or put in a 225°F oven for 20 minutes before filling.

Huckleberries are a pleasure to can. Simply fill the sterilized jars, press the fruit down gently but firmly, add the sugar syrup, and process. All berries need to be packed with a measure of firmness to avoid floating fruit.

Jellies

One secret to good canning is to be innovative. One of my favorite jellies is a blend of raspberry and red currant. With jam and jelly making, commercial or natural pectin can be used. High levels of natural pectin are present in many fruits including green apples, cranberries, and underripe berries. Once again, the level of sweetness is a matter of individual choice. Despite dire warnings by commercial pectin companies, I regularly alter the recipe and make decent jam with a ratio of six or seven cups of fruit to four cups of sugar, rather than the recommended ratio in which the sugar exceeds the fruit. Jam cooked longer will become thicker, but the occasional runny batch can make great pancake syrup or sauce for pudding or ice cream. And there is now commercial pectin available, derived from citrus peels and pulp, that requires little or no sweetener.

Pickles

Our climate wasn’t kind to cucumbers. We made our bread-and-butter pickles by substituting zucchini for cucumber. Add a few red or yellow peppers to dress up the jars and tantalize the taste buds in the barren winter. During my 13 years in the bush I pickled heaps of beets, and I learned to be careful not to overcook them. Remove them from the heat while they still have some firmness; as they sit in a mass waiting for peeling, they will continue to soften.

My mother still raves about Nanny’s dessert tomatoes. First she would make juice from over mature tomatoes pressed through a sieve. She then peeled prime tomatoes after scalding them in boiling water and cooling them in cold water. After packing them, she filled the jars with hot juice, sealed them, and processed them in a hot water bath.

Sealing & Storage

After the canning has cooled, test the jar seals. The sharp inhaling plink of lids as they bear down is music to any experienced canner’s ears. Equally recognizable is the disheartening dull thud of canning lids letting go of their rims. To test the seal, press the center of each lid. If it is already down and doesn’t move, it is sealed. If it moves up or down it isn’t sealed. Tap the jar with a spoon. A clear ringing sound indicates a good seal. A dull sound may mean a poor seal. Refrigerate any suspicious jars and use them within the next few days.

The rest are ready to be stored. How quickly we forget! It is best to write the name of the product and the date it was canned on a label that will adhere to the jar. Felt pen on masking tape is efficient but not overly attractive. Be decorative, especially if the product is intended as a gift.

Canned goods can be stored in any dry, dark, and cool space. If the spot is too damp the lids and rings will rust. We learned this the hard way one winter when we stashed some jars in the root cellar. If the place is too warm, the food may lose flavor or change color. Freezing can break the seal as well as the jar. Stored in proper conditions, canned foods will retain their flavor, color, and nutritional value for about a year. Check through your supply of preserves now and then for any signs of spoilage. A bulging lid means tainted food. Use your eyes, ears, nose, and common sense to decipher any suspicious symptoms as you open each jar. If there is mold, foaming, discoloration, or odor, discard the food immediately. Further, before serving any canned meat or vegetables, bring them to a boil and heat thoroughly. Above all, do not give it the taste test, and religiously apply the blanket rule: When in doubt throw it out.

This article from Mother Earth News was originally found here.

Technorati Tags: canning equipment, Canning Food, Long Term Food Storage, pressure canning, water bath canning

For more on tools and other equipment such as jars and lids refer to the post Canning Food With a Water Bath Canner. Additionally, you will find details about preparing your jars before placing them in the pressure canner to seal, as well as how to determine if your jars have sealed. The post Canning Food for Long Term Food Storage will help you determine if you should use a pressure cooker. Here we will only be dealing with the equipment and pressure cooking process itself.

Remember, the basic principal of canning is to expose the food to a high temperature, that will stop decay and bacteria in the food. Sterile, airtight containers, generally glass jars with removable seals and ringed bands, are used to package the food, and then they are exposed to a high temperature, either through pressure canning or using a water bath canner. Tools such as a rack and tongs are universal to both methods of canning.

Except for size, a pressure cooker and a pressure canner are the same thing. Pressure canning can be done in both a canner and a cooker. The key to deciding whether to use a canner or a cooker is in determining both your canning and cooking needs. A pressure cooker will limit the amount and size of jars you can preserve at once.

To give you an idea, a typical pressure cooker, about 6-8 quarts, will hold 2-3 pint size jars. This would translate into about 14-20 batches if you were processing forty pounds of tomatoes.

A mid sized compromise, if it is important for you to use a pressure cooker so as to have it for cooking too, is about a 10 quart cooker. Keep in mind, this is only a compromise if you cook a lot with a pressure cooker. If you don’t, you might consider getting a canner over a cooker.

The best size, if you’re main use is canning, is a 22-23 quart canner, which is typically around the same price as a 16 quart canner. They allow you to hold more jars, both pint and quart size, minimizing your time and effort in the process. It should also be mentioned that processing times are calculated using a full size canner. This is important because food canned in a cooker will cool down faster than food canned in a canner, which means the process will be less effective. It is possible to use a pressure cooker, but there is no formula for adjusting the difference in cook times due to size. Whatever size you need, a Presto pressure cooker is one of the best options available.

Once you are prepared to start pressure canning, follow these steps:

• Put 2 to 3 inches of hot water in the canner and place filled jars on the rack being sure to use a jar lifter, and fasten the canner lid securely.
• Don’t put the weight on the vent port or open petcock yet. Heat at the highest setting until steam flows from the vent port, or petcock.
• Maintain the high heat setting, exhaust the steam for ten minutes before placing weight on vent port of closing petcock. It will take 3-5 minutes for the canner to pressurize.
• Once the dial indicates the recommended pressure has been reached, or when the weighted gauge begins to jiggle or rock, start timing the process.
• In order to maintain a steady pressure, either at or just above the correct pressure gauge, regulate the heat underneath the canner. Avoid letting the pressure reading go below the recommended pressure, or you must bring the pressure back up and start timing the process all over again.
• Once the process has reached the completion time, turn off the heat or remove the canner from heat, and let the canner sit at room temperature to depressurize. You will know by the dial moving back to zero or there are no steam sounds when you gently nudge the weight. Don’t force the canner to cool by releasing pressure or placing the canner under water as it will result in under processing. This could also cause jars not to seal and a loss of contents from the jars. Quick cooling can also damage the canner lid, especially on older models.
• Once the canner is properly depressurized, open the petcock or remove the weight from the vent port. Wait for two minutes, unfasten and remove the lid. Lift the lid carefully away from you so as not to burn yourself with steam.
• Using a jar lifter, remove the jars and place on a cooling rack or towels. Avoid setting jars on a cold surface or exposing them to breezy conditions.

If you choose your equipment and tools carefully, you will have many years of successful pressure canning food.

Technorati Tags: pressure canning

For those who are handy and can create a rack out of wire, a large stock pot can be used to create a water bath canner. The rack is important to keep the jars off the bottom of the pot, and away from each other, and you need to make sure the pot is deep enough to hold enough water to submerge the canning jars by at least one inch. For those who don’t chose to make their own, a water bath canner can easily be purchased.

The basic premise behind water bath canning is to increase the temperature of the canning jar so that it’s hot enough to kill yeast, bacteria and molds that are found in food. Additionally, heat pushes the air out of the container when the contents of the jar expand. Once the jar cools to room temperature, the compression creates a seal, keeping air and organisms from entering the jar and preventing the food from spoiling.

In addition to the water bath canner, there are tools that will make the job easier, and you can get a canning kit, but critical to the process, however, are the jars you will use for canning food. You will need to select the size of the jars based on your recipe and what you decide to preserve, and you will need screw on bands and canning lids to secure the jars. It is crucial to ensure the jars have no nicks or cracks and have a flat rim. You will also need to sterilize the jars before filling them with your food items.

After you have collected your equipment and prepared your food ingredients, you’re ready to begin the canning process. Take your freshly sterilized jar, making sure it is still warm and fill them with the prepared food. Be sure to leave a little head room in each jar according to the recommendation in your recipe, a general rule of thumb is about one inch. Wipe the top of each jar with a clean towel to remove any debris that might keep the jar from making a secure seal. Place the lid on the jar centering it so the rubber is on the entire rim. Screw on band, but do not tighten it so the gasses can escape from the jar.

Put the newly filled, still warm jars into the rack in your water bath canner, making sure they don’t touch. Use warm water and make sure that the water covers the tops of the jars by at least one inch. Cover the pot and bring to a boil. Set your timer according to your recipe. Reduce heat to maintain a rapid boil. Add boiling water as needed during the process to keep the water level above the jars.

Once the timer has sounded, turn off the heat and use tongs to remove the jars immediately from the water. Place the jars on a cooling rack or a thick layer of towels and allow to cool completely. As the jars are cooling they will begin to seal and you will be able to hear them pop. To test the seal, push the top of the lid, if it does not move, the jar should be sealed.  If the jar is sealed and completely cooled, tighten the band, label and store in a cool dark place.

The contents of any jar that does not seal should be consumed within a week, and the lids discarded as they will not seal in the future either. When you prepare to use one of your jars in the future, make sure to inspect the contents for spoilage before eating. Spoilage would be mold, gas, cloudiness, odors or drainage. If spoilage has occurred in one of your jars, to avoid possibly serious illness, do not eat the contents.

Canning food in a water bath canner for long term food storage is a fun and delicious way to preserve the harvest from your garden, bring back summer freshness during the winter, and is one step to becoming self sufficient on the urban homestead.

Technorati Tags: Canning Food, Long Term Food Storage, urban homestead, water bath canner

Home canning has been done for ages. The basic principal of canning is to expose the food to a high temperature, that will stop decay and bacteria in the food. Sterile, airtight containers, generally glass jars with removable seals and ringed bands, are used to package the food, and then they are exposed to a high temperature, either through pressure canning or using a water bath canner.

While most fruits can be safely canned in a water bath, those with a higher acidity, like tomatoes, are the exception. Many vegetables, like corn, carrots, squash, beans, mushrooms, spinach, bell peppers, and asparagus have a higher acidity and should be pressure canned. Meats should also be pressure canned.

A general rule of thumb, lower acidity foods can be preserved in using water bath canning, and higher acidity foods should be preserved using a pressure canning. Specifically, foods below 4.5 pH may be safely canned in a water bath canner at 212F. Foods above 4.5 or higher need to be processed using a pressure panner at 250F or higher.

Whether you are using a water bath or a pressure canner, a rack is needed to keep the jars off the bottom of the canner. Glass heats more slowly than metal and jars are more liable to crack as a result.

A great “go to” book for long term food storage is Putting Food By . It has a pH chart of commonly canned foods, and it covers everything you need to know about why foods spoil, botulism, and various methods of preserving food including canning, pressure cooking, freezing, drying, root-cellaring, and curing.

Technorati Tags: Canning Food, Long Term Food Storage, pressure canning, water bath canner

 So you’ve decided that urban homesteading makes sense to you, now what? How do you start lessoning your dependence on the support systems of modern society? The first thing to ask yourself is why do I want to do this? Know your motivation. 

Just like reading a map, you have to start with where you are, and know where you want to go, to map a route to your destination. Take an inventory of where you are in life and what you might already have, or do, that fits into a homesteading lifestyle. Do you already grow herbs in the window, or have you never even pulled up a weed? Do you own your home outright, making payments, or do you rent? Do you live in an apartment or a house in the suburbs? Have you accumulated a bunch of “things” or do you live with minimal stuff. Are you in debt or do you have a large savings? These are the kinds of things to think about. 

Take the time to write down what you have to work with, items that you own, whether or not they have value for homesteading itself, you may decide to have a garage sale for the things that don’t help you in an urban homesteading lifestyle, but could help you get out of debt. You may have an old dehydrator in the garage that you forgot about, I did. 

Write down what skills you that have, what experiences you’ve had. You may be surprised at some of the things you may have at least been exposed to through the course of your life. You may have helped your mother or grandmother with canning when you were a child. 

Know exactly the state of your finances. If you have debt, start getting rid of it. A mortgage can be a different matter, although getting it paid off should also become a goal at some point, but the debt you need to get rid of first is consumer debt. Credit cards, car payments, stereo loans, anything that is costing you money every month. The more you have to pay to the credit card company, the less you have to change your life.

Get rid of unnecessary expenses like gym memberships, cable, etc., if you are in debt apply the amount you would have paid for these expenses to pay off your debt. You will be VERY pleasantly surprised how you will feel when you don’t have anymore debt. You will have freed yourself from one of the modern systems just by doing that.

Once you know where you are, and what you have to work with, where do you want to go? What makes sense to you? You should start a garden in whatever space you have available. Will you make your own clothes? Will you use solar and wind power to get yourself free of energy dependence? Will you add chickens and other livestock as you can? What is most important and/or easiest for your to start doing now? Most people can start some level of gardening while working on their debt.

After you know where you are, and where you want to go, you can start setting goals, short, medium and long term goals, to get to your destination. As mentioned already, one of your first main goals should be to be debt free, and there are things you can do that will both help toward that goal as well as another, like gardening. Whatever you can eat out of your garden you won’t have to pay for at the store.

In summary, if you want to get into urban homesteading today, determine where you are currently, where you want to go, then set goals and do the steps it takes to get you where you want to go. Some level of self sufficiency, be it partial or complete, will be your reward.

Technorati Tags: homesteading today, urban homesteading, Urban Homesteading Today

Over the course of 126 years, 1.6 million homesteads were granted. While urban homesteading today does not allow for the receipt of free land, it does follow the tenants of developing the land toward a less dependent life. There are still rural homesteaders that have the ability to develop, or already have developed a completely self sufficient lifestyle. They may or may not “live off the grid”, but would have the ability to do so should something cause them to need to, such as the power going out during a storm and remaining off for several days.

While the ability to be completely self sufficient still tends to elude the urban dweller, due to the general inability to provide for their own water and sewer, there are many things the urban and suburban population can do for themselves that will both reduce their dependence on others as well as impact the world around them. These are the things that will be the focus of this blog. Saving the environment, although reducing our impact on the world may be a side effect, is not the goal here. The goal is live a debt free life which is less dependent on others. To return to some things of a simpler time, but mix them with some things of today, in an effort to ultimately give us more freedom and a better life.

Our journey into urban homesteading today will take us into the permaculture garden. We will discuss how to find a garden composter solution, how to grow fruit, how to grow vegetables, and how to grow herbs. We’ll talk about what place keeping chickens has in a permaculture garden, what to do about rain water collection, and what long term food storage options, such as canning food, drying food, and freezing food, can be utilized once your raised vegetable garden is producing.

We will explore solar power electricity and wind power electricity. We will determine what outdoor cooking equipment to use for different kinds of cooking. This is a new journey, one we will take together, and you can learn and benefit from all the research we will do. So how about it, are you ready to start the trek into urban homesteading today?

Technorati Tags: Urban Homesteading Today